Testing electrics

I found this flowchart online, which seems to be a really good electrical troubleshooting flowchart. I printed it out and headed to the garage.

I did all of the current tests, voltage tests, stator tests, and voltage regulator tests. The bike passed every one with flying colors.

Since taking things apart and putting them together made the bike happy, I’m assuming that the voltage regulator connections were wonky. Along those lines, I should swing by Radio Shack and pick up some dielectric grease for the battery terminals.

I’m pretty proud of myself; at the risk of sounding like a big girlygirl, I usually have to ask Peter how to work my multimeter. I’m still a little unclear on the ammeter part of things, but I figured out all the voltage and diode tests. Woo!

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3 Responses to Testing electrics

  1. Bobby Chong says:

    In order to know how to use a voltage or ammeter correctly you must need to know what is a series circuit or parallel circuit. To measure voltage for you battery, you use parallel to connect to the battery. But if you want to measure ammerage for your alternator, you need to use series to connect it. I would strongly not recommond you do that with your home use muti-meter since most of them could only measure up to 10 amps. And most of the alternater output are way alot more than that. Refuse to do that could link to damage your meter or even you bike. I would strongly recommend you fully understand how the electrically system work before you take things apart first. Because a wrong connection or a small mistake could cause a fire or explorion. I personally saw many fire were causes by wrong electrically repair.
    Bobby Chong, auto mechanic from Toronto.

  2. carolyn says:

    *nods* That all makes sense. My problem with my multimeter is that, for some reason, there are two ammeter settings. DCA and ACA. No one believes me about this, but it’s true. 🙂 I don’t know which setting to use. If I weren’t lazy, I’d walk the whole 20 feet across the garage and look at Peter’s multimeter (or just use that one in the first place), but that would be too easy.
    I’m not too concerned about playing around with testing the electrics, as all I’m doing is unplugging connectors and taking measurements with the help of books and flowcharts. I have the wiring diagram for the bike, and can read and understand it. Oh, and I also have three fire extinguishers in the garage. 😉

  3. Jamie C. says:

    DCA is DC Amps (current).
    ACA is AC Amps.
    For nearly all of your bike work, you’ll want to be using the DCA setting. The only AC that you’re likely to find on your bike is coming from your alternator (before it hits the rectifier).
    And if you have any electrical questions, feel free to ask me. I think it’s awesome that you want to learn. Too few women care about how stuff works; there were only two other women (besides me) in my EE class.

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